The best resource for sewing and quilting needs is Clotilde.com. It’s been around for ages and offers a complete selection of templates, needles, scissors, rotary cutters, patterns, fabrics and on and on. They have the largest array of seam rippers I’ve seen anywhere: lobster-clawed, flat-handled, round-handled, two-sided with an awl, lighted, retractable. They sell many unusual and specialized”feet” for sewing machines with adapters to ensure fit on your particular model.
The best online source for quilting fabric is eQuilter.com. It’s a very personal, small company out of Boulder, Colorado with the largest online selection of fabrics in all genres: batiks, Asian, novelty prints, solids, tonals, etc. They have great prices and sales, rapid shipping, and excellent customer service. I usually try to patronize my local small quilting shop, but this is my go-to source for things I can’t find locally.
The best resource for quilting kits is Keepsake Quilting.com. Why kits? It’s easy to overbuy fabric for quilting projects and the fabric is expensive. Also, Keepsake puts together breathtaking combinations of colors and designs. My most recent purchase was #2990 which I had been lusting over for some time and it would have easily cost more buying the fabrics individually. If you want to use your own quilt pattern, try their medleys of fabrics like Nara Gardens #1646 or the Aquatica Medley #7582 or the Intergalactic Medley #7564.
Fire Mountain Gems and Beads is, in a sense, the McMaster Carr of the jewelry world. The company’s 400-plus page print catalog, with its to-scale photos of beads, gems, clasps and findings (roughly, the jewelry-making hardware), rivals any catalog in terms of introducing creative possibilities, and enticing you to buy stuff. For me, having the physical catalog makes navigating the extensive website easier.
If you’re interested in making bead jewelry, I’d recommend taking a beginner’s class at a local bead store to get started and gain a basic familiarity with the tools. I took a wire wrap class at a local shop and then had a foundation from which I was able to learn knotting and stringing pearls watching Fire Mountain’s instructional videos.
One of my favorite aspects of having even a basic ability to make jewelry is that I’m always able to create a last-minute gift, at least for friends whose taste is similar to mine. I keep a small stash of beads and findings around, and then can put together a pair of earrings in 10 minutes—a personal, homemade gift I didn’t have to go to the store to buy.
GooGone is a liquid that helps remove adhesive residues. I’ve been using it for years to clean off the adhesive residue left from stickers, labels, tape, etc.
Let’s say you just bought a picture frame and removed the label from the glass. In order to remove that irritating, gummy adhesive residue left by the label, you just rub a bit of GooGone over it with a cloth and the goo is gone! No need to use a razor blade, acetone or other nasty solutions.
Not much of an odor, and an 8oz. bottle lasts for years since you use just a small dab each time!
I have been buying Neodymium Iron Boron (NIB) super magnets for years. Back then, the previously-reviewed Wondermagnets was the only source for hobbyists and they had quite a selection. But times have changed. For the past five years, I have been ordering my magnets from “Mr. George the SuperMagnetMan,” unequivocally the best source today. His prices are the best on the net. His selection is vast: no one else has the stock he has or the variations in size of commonly available shapes. This is no exaggeration or hype. He’s got stuff you can’t get anywhere else and is constantly adding new items, like axially- and diametrically-magnetized NIB wedding rings and radially-magnetized ring magnets. He has magnets so large they are dangerous (fortunately he has put videos on YouTube that show you how to safely handle these monsters — with large leather welding gloves and a special wooden wedge and a 2×4!). He also sells magnetic hooks, pyramid shaped magnets, magnetic jewelry, teflon coated magnets, heart, star, and triangle magnets. You can even get powdered magnets that act like iron filings on steroids! You name it he’s got it. Most magnets are N45-N50 grade, the highest strength you can buy.
Some of the products I have ordered are the magnet powders, radially-magnetized ring magnet, various size sphere magnets, conical magnets, large rectangular magnets, cubes, and many others. Shipping charges are reasonable. Service is great. One time I ordered a bunch of stuff and never completely checked what I got. I went to use one of the magnets months later and found out it was the wrong size. He sent me the right size in the mail a few days after I emailed him.
Mr. George seems like a pretty cool dude, too. An electrical engineer, Mr. George develops magnet products himself and caters to other engineers, inventors, and hobbyists. He can have custom magnets made to order. He has also put up a series of educational videos on YouTube and has done a lot of work with kids. He has a saying, something like, “Give a kid a magnet and you have a friend for life.”
This retailer sells all sorts of glass, plastic and tin containers at extremely low prices. I found the store two years ago when I set out to start my own darkroom. I knew I wanted small amber bottles to store batches of chemicals, and I learned that glass was important so I could put them in a water bath to get them to the proper temp for film developing. These bottles are available from various photo suppliers, but usually at *many* times the cost and, sometimes, only in bulk. Specialty Bottle sells thirty-two-ounce, amber, glass Boston rounds for $1.86; you can buy as few as one and, as is often the case, the more you buy, the lower the price. I originally bought a bunch of bottles for my darkroom, but have continued using the site for all my bottle-jar-container needs: tall tin containers for storing tea, and short flat tin containers for storing all my bulk spices. Recently, I bought 20 4-oz. glass jars to keep single servings of a mix of fish food. Each jar cost only $0.66.
As an alternative to the previously-reviewed shelving system, I recommend Unistrut, a system of slotted metal channel, framing and tubing that can be connected and interconnected with various nut and bolt fittings to create storage racks, shelving, work tables, support for overhead lighting and a lot more. The parts are industrial quality (steel and/or pre-galvanized steel), but priced to be used everywhere. If you want to see it in use, go into any garage, gym or building where the structure is exposed. You will usually see Unistrut brackets used to hold up the water pipes for the fire sprinklers. The real wonder of the stuff is that you are not limited to using it on the wall; they have a large variety of fittings available specifically for hanging. It’s often used to anchor mezzanines and catwalks in warehouses.
The variety of fittings makes Unistrut very versatile. My dad uses it to make ski and ladder racks in the garage in the 8 inches of space above the garage door and the ceiling. He also used the tracking system to make a sliding door. I once welded a bunch of shelf brackets for him out of 2 x 2 x 1/4 inch angle iron. You can create shelving with the light gauge, 1 1/4-inch width channel or with the heavier gauge, 1 5/8-inch width with 24 inch brackets, which is good for 1200 pounds. The fail weight is two or three times the rated weight. We have a pile of the stuff in the back of our shop next to the scrap wood. If the shelf needs more capacity, we usually just double them up. What’s also wonderful is that if you don’t want to purchase pierced channel and/or additional brackets, you can take any standard bracket, drill a bolt hole, and create adjustable shelving. You can buy Unistrut fittings online. Channel, the part which is expensive to ship, can be found next to electrical conduit at Home Depot.
My wife has been asking me to build a firewood rack for years. I was planning to construct something from square steel tubing, which would require a lot of cutting and welding. A friend recommended Stack-It Brackets, which allow you to quickly assemble and locate 2x4s in three directions without using any additional hardware. I’m sorry I didn’t find these years ago, as we’ve been stacking wood badly for quite some time. They’re inexpensive, work as advertised, and allow for quick and easy variations in the size of the rack.
I picked up a set of four steel brackets and in less than 30 minutes, I had an 8×3-foot firewood rack. Most of the time is spent in cutting the 2x4s into whatever lengths you want. After that, you just install the pieces. NOTE: the brackets will not hold true 2x4s. The rectangular hole in the bracket that determines the dimensions of the lumber giving the rack it’s length is 1.61″ x 3.61″. With that piece of wood in place, the space for the vertical piece is 1.63″-1.72″ x 3.63″. The space available for the piece determining the width is 1.65 x 3.69″. I used dimensional lumber measuring 1.5′ x 3.5″ with both of my racks.
The brackets are drilled to allow the used of screws for added rigidity, if one chooses. The first rack I made, I used some decking screws to attach the 2x4s to the brackets, because I thought it needed to be rigid. The second rack I assembled to hold kindling is made without using any hardware other than the brackets, and it is working just fine (below). Without using hardware, increasing or decreasing the capacity of the rack means just swapping in different lengths of 2×4. I’m actually a bit bummed about using the screws on the first rack (below), as I want to add taller verticals to increase it’s capacity, but will have to wait until the rack is almost empty to move it to get to the screws on the backside.
According to the box, the brackets can also be used to construct a workbench, storage rack, plant stand, or shelving. I’ve seen a similar bracket product online, but they’re made from ABS plastic rather than steel. With a bit of wood preservative, my racks should last for years.
Sticker Shield is a static adhesion sheet that surrounds a decal or sticker, making it easily removable and transferable from one surface to another. I’ve always had a problem with parking stickers. External stickers are easily scraped off during Chicago winters. Internal stickers are weatherproof, but can only be removed destructively from your windshield. Unlike the previously-reviewed Un-Du and Grip Solvent, which can ostensibly remove decals easily, Sticker Shield allows you to avoid the hassle altogether and preserves the sticker for re-use. The sheets are 4×6-inches, so if you’re using smaller decals, you just cut down the sheet and save the other half for another sticker. Often my partner and I switch cars, so now it’s much easier to swap stickers with each other before going to work. Or say a child has an awesome sticker he or she wants to put somewhere, but on a “permanent” basis. Whenever the time comes time to remove it, there’ll be no need to resort to solvents or scraping.
– Joel Grossman
These are SENSATIONAL. The plastic holds up perfectly for years and it is impossible to see you’ve made your “permanent” sticker a temporary and easily movable item. I’ve been using Sticker Shields (it used to be named something else) for at least ten years: one for my auto registration sticker and one for my state inspection sticker, both on my front windshield. My daughter also uses one for her apartment parking sticker, and gives it to friends when she’s not around town. She did that in college, too, so her pals could park on campus when she was off. It’s really fun to use, sort of like magic.
– Joseph Stirt
$5 (two 4×6-inch sheets)
Available from the manufacturer, Lemeer Design
Whereas most glue sticks are designed to permanently stick paper to paper, this glue stick is designed to create instant, repositionable sticky notes out of just about anything (Scotch specifies fabric or paper). A swipe or two (they recommend at least two) with this stick, and your self-printed content/form/memo will stick temporarily to any flat dry surface without residue. I love this stuff and use it to make my various Getting Things Done/43 folders items and tasks stay put in my handheld binder. I jot my items and tasks down on variously colored pieces of paper of whatever size I need, rub the magic stickum on them, and they stay put in my binder until I decide to move them around. My inner child is happy because I get to play with stickers and glue; my inner adult is happy because I can continually and easily refine my GTD system until it is transparent to the tasks at hand; my inner artist is pleased by the happy riot of colors and shapes that my ‘organization’ system has become; and my inner accountant is happy that I’m not wasting so much money on little pads of sticky notes. And when it’s time, it can all be peeled up and recycled. Although this stuff is more expensive than regular glue sticks, a little goes a long way. If any gets where it shouldn’t, it washes off with water.
Now that my daughters discovered I have one of these sticks, I have a hard time getting it back. They are fond of making up board games out of pen and paper, which guarantees lots of little bits in the carpet as the game pieces fly around on the slightest breeze. Now they stay put. Ditto for the print-and-cut-apart paper games like Scrabble variants, chess and checkers that you can print from the Web: playability is greatly improved when the playfield can be held on a clipboard in your lap with sticky pieces that won’t budge until you want them to. Next big trip we’re taking, the girls are getting clipboards with a stack of these things printed out, cut apart, stuck down and ready to play.
This stuff is Gore-Tex in a can! You can make any nylon garment waterproof and still breathable by spraying it with TX.Direct. You don’t need to spray the underarms (unless you need ultimate dryness), so breathability is enhanced. I’ve been using this stuff for years. I initially used it just on Gore-Tex (it really helps bring old Gore-Tex back to life). Then I gave it a shot on a nylon jacket and it worked just like Gore-Tex. Why spend hundreds on a waterproof jacket when you can spend much less, use this spray and get the jacket of your choice? (one can treats about 4 jackets). I also use TX.Direct on my boots that have nylon uppers, and spray my Woolrich felt hat, which works great — water just beads up on it; can’t even tell it’s there. The spray is somewhat smelly, so it’s best to spray it on outside or in the basement, and it does need to be re-applied after washing. Nikwax also makes a wash-in product you put in with your laundry. I don’t like excessively washing my technical gear, though, as it seems to wear out faster. I save the wash-in stuff only for when I do need to wash things, and freshen up my waterproofing when needed with the spray-on. I also don’t really like the idea of having those chemicals directly against my skin, so I prefer the spray-on generally because you’re only applying it to the exterior of the garment.