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![\"resinmold\"](\"https:\/\/kk.org\/cooltools\/files\/2021\/08\/resinmold.jpg\")
\nThis week I cast a bunch of resin copies of the glass bunny candle holder I made a block mold for in\u00a0issue #90<\/a>.\u00a0\u00a0The mold turned out perfect and I\u2019ve been cranking out bunnies with little issue. The mold is still holding up after nine copies. My fianc\u00e9 is going to use them in art and wants lots of them, so I\u2019ll keep casting them until the mold gives out.<\/p>\n
Several tips:<\/p>\n
* When cutting open the mold, I used zipper cuts on the sides (zig-zag cuts with a razor knife). This helps them knit back together for resin pouring and minimizes mold lines and leaking. I also used painter\u2019s tape to seal the mold shut. The Basics of Cosplay & Prop Electronics<\/strong> Restoring Black Plastic with a Blow Torch?<\/strong> Stainless Steel Zip Ties<\/strong> Notable Quotables<\/strong> Shop Talk<\/strong><\/p>\n What a real featherboard looks like.<\/p><\/div>\n In response to my item about woodworker\u00a0<\/em>Colin Knecht<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0<\/em>making a feather board<\/em><\/a>, Gary Shell wrote:<\/em><\/p>\n \u201cThat\u2019s not really a feather board. At best, it\u2019s a fence. It won\u2019t prevent kickback at all. A real feather board servers two purposes. First and foremost, it prevents kickback. And secondarily, it keeps the wood aligned to the blade. That later function is the only thing Colin got with a rather expensive solution (those magnetic switches are $27 each. Yikes.)\u201d<\/p>\n
\n* The first few bunnies had a fair amount of air bubbles, especially on the ears. I fixed this by pouring a small amount of resin in each ear and moving the mold around to coat the walls. Then, I added resin to half of the mold and moved it around the walls, then filled it and tamped it on the workbench. Almost no air bubbles.
\n* To be able to quickly mix lots of two-part resin for each pour, I bought a bunch of\u00a0resin cups<\/a>\u00a0on Amazon.
\n* Don\u2019t forget to oil or powder the mold before each pour. I haven\u2019t (yet), but lots of people do in the rush of things. I used regular kitchen cooking spray and brushed it around inside the mold.
\nDid you do a block mold for this series? If so, please\u00a0send me<\/a>\u00a0a picture of your cast.
\n![\"bunnymold\"](\"https:\/\/kk.org\/cooltools\/files\/2021\/08\/bunnymold.jpg\")
<\/p>\n
\n![\"propelectric\"](\"https:\/\/kk.org\/cooltools\/files\/2021\/08\/propelectric.png\")
\nIn\u00a0this 43 minute video<\/a>, Adam Savage runs through the basics of circuit wiring for simple costume and prop electronics. In the early days of working at\u00a0Make:<\/em>, I was shocked when I\u2019d talk to cosplayers at conventions about the electronics they used and how little they understood about even rudimentary circuit wiring. Many of them would just cut up existing electronic toys with LEDs, motors, sound F\/X, and the like to cobble together a crude circuit. Luckily, with excellent books like Charles Platt\u2019s\u00a0Make: Electronics<\/a>, and readily available components, lots more makers now know how to deal with things like wiring LEDs. One of the things I found charming about this video is that Adam is not afraid to admit that even for him, basic wiring can quickly become complex enough to make his head hurt. He recommends creating simple circuit diagrams and carefully following them as you construct your circuit and keeping things simple by using\u00a0pre-wired LEDs<\/a>,\u00a0wire nuts<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0terminal lugs<\/a>\u00a0whenever possible. (And yes, he gets a number of things wrong when discussing switch configurations, but the points he\u2019s making still stand.)<\/p>\n
\n![\"plastictorch\"](\"https:\/\/kk.org\/cooltools\/files\/2021\/08\/plastictorch.png\")
\nI saw a video on\u00a0Instagram<\/em>, on one of those somewhat dubious tips channels, of a guy restoring the black plastic trim on his car using a blowtorch. I was skeptical, but doing a wider search revealed that this is a somewhat common practice. Here\u2019s\u00a0a guy using a heat gun<\/a>. Using heat on the plastic allegedly draws out the oils in it and restores a blush of color to the surface. The drawback is that it draws out the oils in it, weakening the plastic. Sounds like a lot of people use this technique to \u201cfreshen up\u201d the black plastic before selling a used car.<\/p>\n
\n![\"stainlesssteelzipties\"](\"https:\/\/kk.org\/cooltools\/files\/2021\/08\/stainlesssteelzipties.png\")
\nIn\u00a0this Cool Tools video<\/a>, Donald Bell takes a look at\u00a0stainless steel zip ties<\/a>, for when plastic ones won\u2019t cut it.<\/p>\n
\n\u201cIf it looks straight, it is straight.\u201d – Jimmy DiResta<\/p>\n![\"What](\"https:\/\/kk.org\/cooltools\/files\/2021\/08\/featherboard.jpg\")