I’ve had many multitools: Leatherman, SOG, Kershaw, etc. but this is by far the best.
It’s a bit weighty (as most multitools are) but this one has stood true through every scenario I have been able to expose it to: two tours overseas, buried in the sand; rescue swimming and diving in extreme search and rescue missions; and bushcraft survival.
It has every feature I could need in an every day life. I carry this tool more than my wallet, cell phone, even keys. I’ve modified a few little aspects on it just to suit personal desires, such as: replacing one tool for a phosphorus rod, using the lanyard hole for a self-made paracord lanyard including fishing line, weights, and hooks embedded, etc. But none of these mods interfere with the original tool itself.
I now work as a paramedic full time, as well as with at-risk youth for Outward Bound and I use this tool daily, usually multiple times.
I was on a job recently and saw a guy using one of these to remove some long threaded screws on a switch plate, and after watching him I had to get one.
The key is, with a standard screwdriver there is a limit to how fast you can operate it. With this one, you can turn on the speed when you want. Your movement comes from your elbow instead of having to repeatedly turn your wrist to its limit.
It saves so much time. It works really well on low-torque, machine screws (the kind with a lot of threads per inch, like in switch plates). Sometimes a plate will have short screws, but sometimes you encounter a plate that has 1″ or 2″ 6/32 screws that to take forever to get out or in with a standard hand operated screwdriver. With this screwdriver, you can be done before you could walk across the room for the drill.
It’s perfect if you are painting, and don’t need/want to carry a drill around. You can keep one of these in your back pocket.
Tangentially, this Christmas I received the Kobalt Speed Drive ($18) which is a fascinating (if complicated) solution to the same problem. While it is cool (the 6x gear ratio turns the screw whichever way your wrist moves), it is heavier and larger than the Klein. Also the bit attachments can be easily dropped, lost, etc.
-- Allen Watts
Klein Tools Cabinet Tip Screwdriver, Yellow and Black
I am a painter and I have used the Masterson Rinse Well daily, for years. (The same unit!)
It consists of a 28 oz (840 ml) plastic water bottle which, when filled and inverted onto the base, feeds water into a well in the center for brush wetting or cleaning. Pressing the button at the front drains the used water into the reservoir underneath and automatically refills the well with clean water. The area surrounding the well can be used as a kind of palette and there are two holes to hold brushes.
This multi-function unit takes up very little drawing table space, is durable and easy to clean, is inexpensive, and is an all-around excellent tool. (Having an extra water bottle is a good investment for limiting trips to the water faucet.)
From the world of sewing comes this fabulous array of clever transparent rulers in a variety of shapes and sizes, including rectangles, squares and triangles. I use my 6″ x 24″ omni grid ruler for cutting out fabric with my rotary cutter. Quilters use them for cutting out quilt pieces in various geometric shapes. People cutting templates or marking tricky cuts will find these transparent rulers very handy as you can see the surface through the ruler. There are angles for cutting 45 and 60 degree angle on many of the rulers.
A wide variety of accessories make these rulers more useful: glowing tapes for marking the ruler when making many cuts of the same same size, clear “sticky” stuff to put on the bottom of the ruler so it will not slide, suction cup handles for grips to make them easier to move, as well as cases and storage options.
On the down side, they are fragile, and can break if dropped on a hard surface.
This is a “can” of compressed air that contains a very small compressor of sorts so you have a never ending supply of high pressure compressed air. As a hobbyist letterpress printer and a confirmed tinkerer, I use this all the time for everything from drying of type that is being cleaned to blowing dust out of old machinery to just helping clean up. The specs are a 500 watt motor, .75 HP, 4.5 amps, and 70 CFM air flow.
Lots of reviews mention how loud it is when operating (it is) as well as how powerful the stream of air is (as I think it should be), and it runs about the cost of 10-12 cans of air so you make back your initial investment quite quickly, cut down on waste (empty cans), and have access to a variety of nozzles to us (including an itty bitty computer keyboard nozzle). And, you avoid some of the chemicals that are in individual cans of compressed air.
-- Neil J. Salkind
ED500 DataVac 500-Watt 0.75-HP Electric Duster
I am a figurative marble sculptor. I have been using the Cuturi air hammer line for 20 years. I learned about it from the 70-year-old artisani in Italy who have been sculpting for major studios all their lives.* They use Cuturi because they stand up to 40 hour weeks, for decades. So, that’s what I got. I have tried some others, and they worked OK, but nothing was better and it has withstood the test of time since I have been using mine for a long time.
Cuturi air hammers come in different sizes (different size pistons) and two types. The roughing hammers take larger chisels shaft diameters. The finish hammers take smaller chisel shaft diameters. Depending on your needs, you will probably want a large, medium, and small hammer for roughing, and then a medium and small for finish work. If you don’t use a diamond bladed saw for the initial stage of the rough (getting rid of big chunks of stone), you may want the largest air hammer for your initial rough but it’s very heavy and exhausting to use.
Generally, I use carbide tipped chisels which can be purchased commercially. However, for finish work, the last two finishing stages are done with chisels made by a blacksmith out of steel. (The retired Italian blacksmith who made my set of steels complained that he has a hard time finding quality steel for chisels anymore.) The carbides are sharpened on a grinder. The steels are sharpened on a stone. (Nothing fancy, a nearby flat rock will do.) The roughing Cuturi hammers are best with carbide chisels. The larger finishing hammer can use both. The smaller finishing hammer is only used with steel.
*Sadly, when you buy a marble sculpture by a famous artist, it is not unlikely that they have never touched the stone. They send a model to one of the major studios in Pietrasanta, Italy and the artisani there copy the model into stone, often enlarging it and adding important details. Sometimes they just get a hand sketch or a short description to work from. They get paid a fairly low hourly wage, then the sculpture gets crated by a guy who has been doing it all his life, shipped to a New York gallery, and someone pays six figures for it.
This pouring medium is specifically for artists who use acrylic paint. You add 1/2 paint to 1/2 pouring medium and your paints will flow and create unique designs on a panel or canvas without making a muddy mess. The pouring medium is made only by Liquitex and hardly anyone knows about it. It creates fascinating patterns and swirly designs for abstract art that honestly anyone can do.
-- Shelly Leit
Liquitex Professional Pouring Effects Medium
I’ve been knitting for almost 50 years. Addi Turbo knitting needles are the best: smooth, sleek and well-made.They are made in Germany. I can’t buy them often, but when I need a new size for something, I am willing to pay their premium price. Quality and a size range that can’t be beat. Mostly they make (and I use) circular needles, but they also make 3″ glove needles that I have used for making tiny little finger puppets. No one else makes needles as short (that I know of).
-- Bonnie Phillips
Addi Turbo Knitting Needles
Prices vary depending on size and type
I’ve used the Wagner Deck Mate for years. Its smart design really speeds up staining the planks in a deck. It has an aluminum handle, gravity-feed reservoir, control valve knob, and swiveling paint pad head. The long handle lets you stain the deck while standing up (and off your knees!)
Fill the reservoir with up to a ½ gallon of stain or sealant, and then twist the yellow knob to control the flow of stain down into the paint pad. As you glide the pad along the decking it both applies stain and back brushes for even and full coverage in one step.
A really clever feature is the center brush: a brush-within-a-brush that protrudes down and rides along inside the space between the decking slats. The stiff bristles both keep the paint pad in position as you go and get stain down along the side edges of the decking. Genius!
To clean, just place the Deck Mate in the sink and run water thru it.
Over the years I’ve owned half a dozen glue guns, ranging from $6 craft guns up to $120 semi pro guns. They dribbled glue, took forever to heat up, and couldn’t output much glue.
That last issue is a big problem for big projects – you have to use the glue while it’s hot and if the gun can’t quickly output all the glue you need then you can’t stick the parts together.
I was skeptical that the DeWalt could possibly be as good as the package claimed: “heats up 50% faster,” “outputs 50 4-inch glue sticks per hour.” That’s 1.2 pounds of glue per hour, which is far more than any of the previous guns I’ve used. It’s not in the realm of professional glue guns but those cost hundreds of dollars while the DeWalt is $19.95.
Everything on the package is true. I’ve been using this gun for a month and it heats up very quickly, doesn’t dribble glue when you aren’t pressing the trigger, and outputs a phenomenal amount of glue.
Unless you are sealing cardboard boxes all day long this should have enough capacity for any DIY project. It’s better than guns costing 5 times as much.