The first time I used these screw pliers I was amazed that I had lived without a pair for so long. These pliers are designed for screw removal in cases of corroded or stripped heads.

Regular pliers tend to have straight jaws. This works if you grab the screw from the side (horizontally), but if you are in a cramped space and attacking the screw from the end regular pliers fail. I have had many pliers slip off a difficult screw because the jaws are straight where contact is made with the screw, which limits the gripping surface area.

The jaws of these pliers are curved with teeth on the inside of the clamping surfaces. Since the jaws have both horizontal and vertical teeth, these pliers will bite into the circumference of the screw head regardless of the orientation – this makes stubborn screws very, very easy to remove.

It won’t handle stripped countersunk screws (those are suited to the extractor bits on the drill) but for other surface screws or bolts it should be fine.

I have used my offset screwdriver head for around 15 years and it enables me to get to screws in tight places where you might otherwise only be able to use a stubby screwdriver.

I find that the torque transfer is excellent, although sometimes the extra grip does come off. I have used it in my cordless drill as well as hand held, and it is designed for any combination of bits to be fitted. It does require the use of both hands but this means that one hand is being used to steady or apply downward force to a screw while the other imparts the turning force.

This review is in response to the Source Wanted post Garry Shirts submitted seeking a simple and reliable PVC pipe cutter to cut schedule 40 pipe. Although I admire the elegant simplicity of Garry’s tool, which lacks moving parts, I believe the Klein PVC cutter offers a couple of advantages.

I was introduced to this tool when I hired a friend who’s a professional landscaper to install a sprinkler system on my three-acre property. I was amazed at how quickly and efficiently the Klein tool was able to cut 3/4 inch PVC pipe as well as flexible 3/8-inch sprinkler pipe. The end cuts were clean, burr-free and square, which is helpful when gluing sections of pipe and fitting sprinkler heads. This tool was in constant use, and when it wasn’t in his hands it was light and small enough to be placed in his back pocket. The spring that opens the jaws and the ratcheting mechanism allow for easy one-handed operation. My friend also had an older, simpler model that I used that didn’t have the spring to open the jaws or the ratcheting mechanism that this Klein Tools model has. That older model wasn’t as efficient and required me at times to set down my work and use two hands to open the jaws.

My friend said this tool’s only drawback was that his crew often loses them as they are working in trenches with a lot of loose dirt around. At least they’re relatively inexpensive to replace. A safety orange-colored model might be an improvement. I liked this tool so much I bought my own and use it to cut just about anything that will fit in its jaws.

This 1.6 oz. tool, manufactured by the makers of the previously-reviewed Utili-Key, can fit on a key chain or in a coin purse, which is where I keep mine. I most often use it for tightening the tiny screws on my glasses, but the small #1 Phillips and flat, pliers, wire cutter/stripper, sheet shear and rule markings (bonus!) are all unbelievably useful at the frequent odd moments you need the right tool which is anywhere but near (particularly the pliers). I have yet to try to go through airport security with it, but the TSA says pliers/screwdrivers and “tools” less than 7 inches can be carried on.

I drooled over and pondered getting this hammer for a year before I finally took the plunge — and it was well worth the very high price tag. This hammer really absorbs the vibrations as you pound it. I have been framing for about 14 years and have been swinging an Estwing 25-oz. California-style framing hammer for most of that time. My elbow is almost shot from the vibrations of using those all-steel hammers. Since buying the much lighter titanium T-bone (15 oz.), I have noticed a dramatic difference in my elbow.

All-around it’s an absolutely wonderful hammer. The magnetic nail starter isn’t a new invention, but it’s handy, and I use the side nail puller every chance I get instead of relying on the claw. The hammer also features a removable steel head (or face), which can be replaced with a milled waffle or smooth head (depending on which face you purchase to begin with). Stiletto makes other cheaper hammers with a titanium head and a wooden or fiberglass handle. They absorb a lot of shock, too, but tend to break fairly easily – unlike this model, which has a titanium handle covered in rubber.

If you are serious about building and/or want to lessen the impact on your elbow, arm, etc., this hammer is certainly worth the investment. I don’t know offhand what a shot of cortisone costs, but they probably add up. I wouldn’t recommend this hammer for the average Joe, but if you use a hammer a lot, this is the one to get. They come with a curved or straight handle. I have one with a curved handle, which just feels right.

Cardboard is a wonderful building material. You can do far more with it than you might expect. Use it to make furniture, sculpture, models, and of course play structures. The common way to assemble projects with cardboard boxes is to slap pieces together with duct tape. But tape is clumsy, expensive, will unpeel outdoors in weather, looks clunky, and won’t take paint. A cool alternative are these Kevlar-like rivets specially designed for box cardboard. One shape does both sides. The rivets sport a grippy ratchet that clinches them close, yet enables them to be reused. The large button gives them holding power and allows you to make joints that can swing, too. We’ve found that you need either two people working, or ape-long arms, to squeeze both sides of the rivet pairs. Also, they are really made for the double wall corrugated cardboard of the kind you find in large appliance boxes; on thin cardboard they aren’t as prettily snug, but still will hold fine. A set of 100 (50 pairs) is enough for a small maze.

[Mr. McGroovy has free plans and some nice tips on where to locate free large boxes.]