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A cool tool can be any book, gadget, software, video, map, hardware, material, or website that is tried and true. All reviews on this site are written by readers who have actually used the tool and others like it. Items can be either old or new as long as they are wonderful. We post things we like and ignore the rest. Suggestions for tools much better than what is recommended here are always wanted.
PowerGrips give most of the benefits of toeclips or clipless/cleat systems on bicycle pedals, without most of the downsides. The concept is simple: an asymmetrical strap of cloth that attaches securely to most bicycle platform pedals. The strap is attached in such a way that it loosens when you rotate your heel away from the bike, and tightens when you “heel-in”. This gives you similar benefits of a clipless/cleat system; greater efficiency in pedalling, because you can pull on the pedals’ upstrokes, rather than just being able to push down. They are just as easy (if not easier) to disengage from. The PowerGrips also have a couple of other benefits which fit well with all but the higher-end performance cyclists:
* Can be used with regular shoes or sandals. Almost no lock-in to a particular type of clip/cleat system. * (Relatively) cheap, at only $20-$25. * You can get off the bike and walk around without looking like you’re doing some sort of odd balancing act, or scratching up whatever floor you’re walking on.
Because the PowerGrip strap is directly above the pedal, gravity does tend to flip it upside-down when not in use. Just as with toe-clips I can pedal on the upside-down pedal to get started, then flip it over with my foot when I’m moving and insert my foot into the strap. Since my riding is commuting to/from work, I have a fair amount of stop-go traffic at intersections, and feel less likely to get a foot stuck and fall over sideways when I have to stop. The PowerGrip strap is totally loose enough for me to quickly get my foot out at a stop, and it has the unusual benefit of being as tight as I want it to be (without using my hands), depending on how I adjust the strap, and how far I heel-in to the pedal. So the “float” can be adjusted on the fly, according to my current riding conditions. This takes a little getting used to, but in my opinion, involves a lower learning curve than clipless pedals. — Brian
I’ve been using these larger-than-usual ergonomic bike pedals this bike riding season. I’ve always had foot problems from cycling. Almost all bike shoes are too narrow for me and clip-in pedals are small and create pressure points. The Ergon pedals are slightly concave which allows the foot to easily find a position of comfort.
These pedals are extremely comfortable all day long, and I have found that they increase pedaling power. Sure they look geeky, but they are one pragmatic tool. — Curtis Wenzel
Bike pedals have been around forever, and one would assume they would have reached their climax state in sophistication and function. Wrong — Egg Beaters beat every other cleated bike pedal out there. They lock your feet in securely, but also afford effortless release. My road bike friends like them too, but they excel on mountain bikes, as the design self-clears mud and dirt, and the mechanical advantage of the design guarantees that a stray bit of dust isn’t going to lock your feet into the pedal.
And they just keep getting better. I bought my first pair — the classic egg beaters– just over two years ago. Then when I purchased my new mountain bike earlier this year, I bought the new Egg Beater Candys — just like the classic, but with tiny platforms wrapped around the egg beater mechanism. This makes it much easier to ride unclipped for short periods than was possible with the old pedals. I haven’t tried the Egg beater Mallets (street shoe ready) yet.
In short, Egg beaters transformed my ride, and I can’t imagine riding a bike that didn’t have them. — Paul Saffo
I ride single-track trails on a mountain bike in the heart of Colorado’s Rocky Mountains and during 20 years of riding I was unable to find a handlebar grip that alleviated numbness and pain in my palms — until I tried the Ergon GP1 grip. Ergon grips differ from normal grips in that they have a contoured, rubber-coated platform under the outside portion of your palm. This platform provides support in such a way that pressure on the ulnar nerve is reduced or eliminated entirely. (I learned my hand numbness arose from pressure on the ulnar nerve in my palm while holding the handlebars.)
Installation is simple, requiring the use of a 4mm allen wrench. Fine-tuning the fit involves riding your bike for a few miles and then evaluating any pain or numbness. If necessary, loosen the bolts, slightly rotate the grips up or down, and retighten the bolts — repeat until your pain or numbness disappears. In my case, rotating the rearmost portion of the grip down from horizontal did the trick. I understand people with carpal-tunnel issues typically rotate the grips upwards from horizontal to reduce the flex angle of their wrists.
Ergon grips are mounted on straight handlebars, such as those found on mountain bikes and some touring bikes, but NOT drop bars. They are available in models with or without bar ends and special short models that work with twist shifters, plus slightly smaller and lighter competition models.
Compared with standard rubber slide-on or “lock-on” grips the Ergon grips are more expensive and heavier. However, the price and weight difference for mine (70-100 grams more) pale next to the increased comfort and pleasure while riding. Since installing the grips, I’ve ridden 244 miles of expert mountain trails with a total 26,500′ vertical gain, and experienced no pain and a huge reduction in my chronic numbness — absolutely no numbness in my right hand and only very minor, infrequent numbness in my left. Everyone I have recommended these to has been pleased, including my chiropractor wife. — Graham Ullrich
We have three points of contact while riding a bicycle: pedals, handlebar grips, saddle. As anyone who’s been uncomfortable on a ride knows well, the latter’s by far the most significant in terms of comfort. Saddle choice is as personal as musical preferences; the only way to know if a saddle works for you is to plant your butt on it and take a spin. One general design, however, made by an English company since the late nineteenth century, has proven itself a tried and true favorite.
Brooks leather saddles come in configurations for nearly every type of rider and every mode of riding. Among the choices for leisurely upright cafe bikes is the B67 model, which I use on my utility/errand bike. It’s the most comfortable saddle I’ve ever owned. I’m obsessive about bike fit (bike fit is more important than bike quality), and there isn’t a component I’ve used that makes my bike fit me better than my Brooks saddle. Brooks’ B15 model has been around since 1937, and is best suited to a racer hunched over in the drops. Other options include women’s models, and wider models with bigger springs.
Like baseball gloves, Brooks saddles require a break-in period, though under you instead of your mattress. After a couple of months mine became noticeably more contoured to my contours. It’s felt custom-made ever since. Also like baseball gloves, bike saddles should be chosen for your size and position (on the bike). A wider platform is better suited to an upright riding position/wider body; narrower is better for racing-oriented cyclists/narrower bodies.
Leather saddles don’t tolerate wet weather as well as modern synthetic models. They’re also heavier and more expensive, too expensive for me to have a Brooks on all of my bikes, though I would. — Elon Schoenholz
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