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A Master Class in Prototype Making
In response to John Baglio’s search for a series of prototyping videos he’d run across, Talon Chandler immediately responded with:
“He’s probably talking aboutDan Gelbart. Dan is a local legend among engineers in Vancouver, BC. He founded Creo, a printing technology company that sold to Kodak circa 2005, and several other companies including Kardium, a growing healthcare company. I’ve had the pleasure of meeting Dan once (I interned at Kardium close to 10 years ago), although I haven’t had the pleasure of visiting his extraordinary shop.”
Others also messaged me and told stories about the impact of Dan’s videos on them. They are amazing. I haven’t found a treasure trove like this since discovering TubalCain/MrPete222 some 15 years ago. Anyone interested in precision machining, prototyping, water jet cutting, and a wealth of general machine shop wisdom should check out this channel.
Expanding the Usefulness of 1-2-3 Blocks with a Hardware Kit
I’ve long been a fan of 1-2-3 blocks and always have them handy when doing a host of different projects. They’re great for quick measuring, aligning, holding parts together for gluing/ fastening, as shop weights, and countless other applications. One of the features that few people outside of machining use are the holes drilled into the blocks. These are not just there to keep the overall weight down. They are threaded and non-threaded holes designed for attaching the blocks in various configurations (such as for making right-angle or T-shaped jigs).
In this Stumpy Nubs video, James introduces a clever little hardware kit for easily attaching blocks – and attaching them with nothing proud of the surfaces. As he points out, you can source these screws and through-hole fasteners yourself, but why not support the guy who came up with the idea for this kit? That guy, Mike Taylor, sells a kit of 6 hex-head screws, sized for 1″, 2″, and 3″ attachment, 4 threaded through-hole dowels, a hex key, and a slotted driver head – all housed in a handy little plastic box. I immediately bought a kit (only $10) and I love it. Mike also makes really high-quality blocks at an affordable price ($20/pair). I snagged a pair of those, too. It always feels good to support a maker small business.
Using Finger Pressure to Match Hex Head to Wrench
On the Twitter account of software engineer Roach, he posted this clever way of matching a hex head to a hex wrench. Pressing your finger into the head will leave a dimple that you can use to size the appropriate wrench.
A Prompt Book for Better AI Art Generation
If you’ve spent any time on social media lately, you’ve likely seen some of your acquaintances go down the rabbit hole of artificial intelligence image generators like Midjourney, DALL-E, and Google’s Imagen. These programs take descriptions that you feed them and return AI- generated art interpretations of that input. It’s very addictive and fun and has huge disruptive potential. My wife Angela and I were joking a few weeks ago that in the future, art will be nothing more than the ability to input the most fulsome description of what you want. And then, just a few days later, Recomendo shared a link to The Prompt Book, a free PDF of instructions, examples, and tips for refining your input commands. It’s directed at the DALL-E program, but its ideas can be applied to any of these art generators. In the future, art will be incantation.
Making a Shop Paper Roll Dispenser
Poking around on the ‘Tubes, I came across a series of DIY videos, called Try, that Kevin Kelly did on Cool Tools in 2020-21. How did I miss these? Here’s one on building a kraft paper roll cutter for your shop and a really charming one about the sign that he made for the Kelly compound in Pacifica, CA.I hope he gets inspired to do more of these.
Maker Slang
Jargon, slang, and tech terms from the many realms of making.
FEP – (Fluorinated Ethylene Propylene) A tough, no-stick plastic material commonly found in the bottoms of resin vat 3D printers. Its translucence allows the light source beneath it to shine through the vat, curing the resin onto the build plate.
Holidays – A term used by professional painters and gilders/gold leafers to refer to gaps in coverage. It derives from the joke that a painter must have taken some time off, a little holiday, by not covering an area they should have. [Hat tip to gilder Michael Kramer]
Minimal viable product – A phrase used by Italian maker and product developer, Giaco Whatever. In creating a product, you want to pare your idea down to its minimum possible components. See also: KISS (keep it simple, stupid)
Real job – A project that’s a series of tasks and challenges that imply significant time and effort – as opposed to a task which can be quickly accomplished. “That’s a real job. I need to set aside an afternoon for that.”
Resilient idiot – A self-deprecating admission that sometimes knowledge and skills seemingly won’t stick, not matter how hard you try and learn them. Coined by Donald Bell. Not to be confused with Andy Birkey’s similar: actual moron.
“This is a very common tool for locksmiths when dealing with vehicle lockouts. The inflatable pry bar can generally create enough space for the locksmith to drop a loop down to grab the lock pin from the interior of the door frame and gain entry without having to damage or possibly ruin the actual lockset on the car door. But don’t underestimate their power. I used one on an old car when I locked my keys in and it bent the door to the point that it never fully aligned to the door frame gasket again.”
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A cool tool can be any book, gadget, software, video, map, hardware, material, or website that is tried and true. All reviews on this site are written by readers who have actually used the tool and others like it. Items can be either old or new as long as they are wonderful. We post things we like and ignore the rest. Suggestions for tools much better than what is recommended here are always wanted.
I’m so happy to see my modeling articles in the latest issue of Make:, the “Props, Models, and Miniatures” issue. I did a piece on “trashbashing” (making hobby models out of kitchen trash) and a collection of modeling, painting, and weathering tips. Bill of Bill Making Stuff has a wonderful sidebar in there, too, with his own trashbashing and modeling tips. These articles present many of my top-level takeaways on modeling for tabletop gaming. Here are a few tippy top tips:
One Brush to Rule Them All — New modelers get sucked into the idea that you need half-a-dozen different miniature-painting brushes, from sizes 0, 00, 000, down to ridiculously small ones like 20-0 and 30-0. These brushes have so few hairs that, by the time you introduce the paint to the model, it has already started to get sticky and dry. It’s best to learn how to use a single brush to do the majority of your miniature painting work. A Windsor & Newton Series 7 Size 1 brush is a perfect go-to brush. Use the very tip of it for fine detail work, apply more pressure for medium coverage, and even more pressure for full coverage. It’s made for water colors, so it can hold a lot of paint. It just takes practice to master. Keep it scrupulously clean and pointed, and it will serve you for years.
The beauty aisle is your friend — There are all sorts of tools and materials for modeling to be found in the drug story beauty aisle (or beauty supply stores): nail polish agitators (paint mixing), nail polish racks (hobby paint holders), fluffy make-up brushes (dry brushing), nail polish remover (acetone), cotton pads and plastic cotton swabs, and much more.
Chop up and recombine — In my trashbash piece, I talk about developing an eye for seeing models in your trash (and how I turned a single crudites platter into a derelict sci-fi outpost town). In Bill Mullaney’s sidebar, he talks about further developing your ability to see specific shapes or textures within those pieces of trash. You don’t have to use the piece as-is. You can cut-up and recombine. Super glue and baking soda go a long way to “welding” all of these recombined pieces together.
Quick lens and canopy effects — Painting a lens or glass canopy white and then glazing it with a colored glaze or art ink of a suitable color (blue, yellow, red, green, etc.) effortlessly creates a pretty convincing glowing lens effect.
Micro-pens for eye pupils (and other tiny details) — You can use fine tip India ink pens to add pupils and other super-fine details to models.
Use art pencils and art chalks — Edge highlighting a model can be hard and takes a steady hand. One way of cheating this is using art pencils. You can draw on edges and raised areas to introduce highlights. Just be careful not to scrape off the underlying paint with the pencils. Cheap art chalks can be ground up and used for dirt, dust, mud, rust, and other weathering effects. Just wear a mask when grinding and applying. That dust is not your friend.
DIY Precision CA Glue Applicators
In more hobby news, this video offers a number of really great tips and tricks for using CA glue in model-making (and beyond). The real aha tip for me is the idea of making your own precision super glue applicators by stretching the barrels of plastic cotton swabs (there’s that beauty aisle again). Plastic stretching is a modeling skill unto itself. I can’t wait to try this out.
https://youtu.be/gmg9GGJFznQ
Impressive Guide to Woodworking Screws
https://youtu.be/SMYbr93rsCE
Joseph of Five Duck Studio presents one of the best primers I’ve ever seen on wood screws. It’s practical, funny, clear, and no-nonsense. He breaks down why not all screws are created equally, how the tip, thread, shank, and head each play vital roles in the screws engineering, and why things like cam-out, wood splitting, and screw “jacking” happen. You’ll learn why drywall screws are woodworking’s guilty pleasure, when to pre-drill, and how to avoid crushed fibers or failed joints. Bonus: He introduces the “screw with the mullet.”
The big takeaway: When in doubt, pre-drill. When you don’t, you’re gambling with your time and materials.
Engineering… IN MY MIND!
Well, I guess this issue has taken on something of a modeling theme. I’ve been working on a trashbashed spaceship for the tabletop miniatures game, Stargrave. There are dozens of non-trivial construction issues to resolve. It’s covered in weird angles, and there are structural challenges and constraints imposed by the scrap materials I’m working with. I’ve been finding that most of the design work isn’t happening at the bench. It’s happening in my head, while in the shower, going to sleep, taking out the trash, etc.
This mental workshop, where aha moments happen before the glue ever hits the scrap plastic, is a place of true joy and discovery. It’s quiet, recursive, sometimes obsessive, and deeply satisfying when a plan comes together. By the time I sit down to build, my hands are just catching up with what my brain has already figured out.
Concealing Layer Lines in 3D Prints
https://youtu.be/pUabxkiJAdE
Via Donald Bell’sMaker Update comes this clever video about how to design various textures into your 3D prints to hide the tell-tale layer lines of FDM 3D printing.
Shop Talk
Tips & Tools readers join in the conversation.
Michael Butler writes:
Sadly, this doesn't work on typical amber prescription bottles, but works a treat for OTC meds like Tylenol and other granular things with the "safety sealed for your protection" sheets stuck on top. Use a utility/X-Acto knife to remove half or less of that sheet, and voila, you limit how many pills get dumped out at a go. I find this handy in general and suspect it'd be especially helpful for people with certain mobility limitations or difficulties such as tremor. I know it helped me when I was recovering from a stroke.
My old Make: colleague, Michael Colombo:
I saw the piece about Japanese hardware stores in your newsletter, and it reminded me of this piece just released in the New York Times about French hardware stores. I thought it may be of interest to you.
***
Hal Gottfried sent a link to this piece by Mike Smith, on his journeys through ham radio. I like Mike’s emphasis on the idea that ham radio is less about chatting and more about learning, tinkering, and building resilient systems that work when the internet doesn’t.
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